The treat that exceeded expectations

Both body and soul refreshed

Back in September last year a particularly agreeable email dropped into my inbox. It reminded me of one I received many years ago from Sir Ronnie Hampel who was accurately described in the Daily Telegraph as “the holder of perhaps the ultimate golden ticket in sport”.

Over the years I’ve bumped into Ronnie by chance in both the Royal Box at Wimbledon and the dining room at Augusta National so the description is fully justified. His email to me two decades ago, sent after I had done him a trifling favour, began “I’m going to Pine Valley for four days in September. Would you like to come? We’ll have a round at Merion on the way.”

A similar example of this genre once arrived from Charlie Yates to whom I was already indebted for hosting my first stay at Augusta. This one suggested that I should join what he called “The complete Bobby Jones tour”, taking in East Lake, Peachtree and Augusta on a single trip, and inviting me to bring two friends of my own choosing as well.

The September 2024 edition of these emails set out an alluring programme for a weekend at Morfontaine. The actual event wasn’t due to take place till last Friday, six months after the email, so there’s been more than enough time to savour the prospect of the pleasures in store. Occasionally a long build up to an eagerly awaited treat can lead to a sense of anticlimax when the great day itself finally dawns. On this occasion, however, the reality turned out to be even better than my dreams.

For this I will be eternally grateful to my extremely generous host, Vladimir Pacheny, whose thoughtful planning ensured that the weekend was an enormous success from start to finish. Vladimir’s other guests were Tom Brown and David Home, who each hold positions of high authority at their home clubs, LACC and North Berwick respectively, and are familiar to ONLY FRIENDS subscribers.

The fun began with a magnificent dinner last Friday at Bistro Paul Chene. It was my first meal at this charming and quintessentially Parisien restaurant. I fell in love with it and its enchanting atmosphere the moment I set foot inside the front door. I’ve always believed that the late Roberta Flack’s moving love song The First Time I Ever Saw Your Face was written about the Companion of My Life aka Mrs Y. Bistro Paul Chene is the culinary equivalent.

Vladimir briefed us on the menu. When it was time for the main course a huge dish was placed in front of him, piled high with slices of rare beef. “That’s an enormous quantity of meat for only four people”, I thought to myself. A moment later a second identical dish was set down in front of me. What I’d assumed was meant for four was actually intended for only two, enough to satisfy the appetite of even Emperor Aulus Vitellius. When it comes to food, France never confuses quality with quantity so it tasted superb as well.

Thus fortified the four of us set off next morning in Vladimir’s Maserati for Morfontaine. The route took us northbound past the Stade de France where the home side gave Scotland a drubbing later in the day to clinch a well deserved win in this year’s Six Nations championship.

Having fretted for days before leaving London about threats of rain in the long range weather forecast it was a relief to find it crisp, dry and cold, redolent of stepping out from a favourite hotel on the edge of the slopes in Courchevel and anticipating a full day’s skiing in perfect conditions across Les Trois Vallees.

Many, possibly even most, of the world’s best golf clubs have the most discreet and least ostentatious entrances. Morfontaine is a prime example. Once inside the gates, the long winding drive through the trees eventually offers appetite whetting glimpses of the courses themselves. Finally the clubhouse, a masterpiece of friendly intimacy, comes into view.

Knowing from previous visits that Le Grand Parcours is particularly well suited to foursomes play because of the large number of holes at which the non-drivers can walk ahead we decided to adopt this format. It was fortunate that Vladimir shared our enthusiasm for foursomes which Only Friends subscribers know is my personal strong favourite and regarded by its devotees as by far the most interesting, challenging and fun way to play.

On this Saturday morning it enabled us all to keep moving and therefore stay warm. The course was in first class condition and its very complex and challenging greens were running quickly. By the time we reached the seventh hole the sun came out and a four ball match in front let us through without delay.

I last played here just over two years ago. Since then the ninth and eleventh tees have been moved to create greater length. On the ninth this brings a bunker on the right more into play and at the eleventh it creates a different and more subtle angle of attack from the tee.

Towards the end of the round we were joined by the very charming Laure de Gramont, granddaughter of the Club’s founder, who drove out in a buggy to chat and watch. Her presence rather unnerved me and I hit more poor shots than usual. Luckily my partner Tom has grown used to this various countries during the last seventeen years. His consistently brilliant recovery shots ensured a tight match and Vladimir had to sink a very missable four foot putt on the final green to win.

Laure joined us for lunch, leading to much lively and entertaining conversation. As the guests consumed their Wiener schnitzels the topics included the history of the estate on which the courses are built and I learned of the weekly “Paris Diary by Laure”. On the strength of the stimulating chatter I immediately became a subscriber.

After lunch we played Valliere, the nine hole gem built before Grand Parcours, and which was originally Laure’s grandfather’s private course. Anyone lucky enough to be invited Morfontaine should definitely ask their host to make time to play it. It was a perfect conclusion to the golfing part of the day. Three weary guests all fell asleep on the way back into Paris, revealing a shameful lack of stamina which was captured for posterity by Vladimir with a photo on his phone.

Another splendid meal was eaten at a restaurant wisely selected for its proximity to a Scottish pub showing the climax of the Six Nations rugby on tv. Not wishing to rush dinner meant we missed the start of the game and by the time we arrived the bar was already absolutely heaving with a large number of rather well refreshed Scotsmen. It was a scene about as far removed from the understated and civilised elegance of Morfontaine as can be imagined.

When the halfway mark of a terrific weekend is passed there’s often a sense of looking down the stairs rather than up. For me, however, the prospect of another round completely prevented this feeling from marring Sunday when I had the chance to drive the holes I’d missed on the previous day and with the benefit of the earlier arrival of sunshine.

After another agreeable lunch Vladimir’s three guests departed with both body and soul greatly refreshed, pleasant memories to cherish and better able to tackle whatever challenges the future may hold personally or professionally.

***** ***** ***** ***** ****** ***** ***** ***** ******

Less is more. Starting now I will post once a fortnight rather than every week. By doing this I hope to avoid late deliveries like this one. And please remember that feedback is always welcome. My next post will therefore be on Saturday 29 March.

ENDS